Showing posts with label chain stitch. Show all posts
Showing posts with label chain stitch. Show all posts

Wednesday, February 19, 2020

Crewel Embroidery: More Stitch Families

Chrysanthemum embroidey
Vintage crewel on white linen (Annake's collection)
In our Back to the Crewel World article, I gave you several examples of straight stitches and showed you how to embellish them with techniques like whipping and lacing. Now I am going to show you how to use those stitches to outline a simple shape. All of them can be used to follow curves as well as straight lines. They work best for this procedure if you keep the stitches as close to the same length as possible.  The leaf shape was outlined with backstitching in moss green.  The other stitches — in order from the outline inward —  are: running stitch (gold); double running stitch (gold/pale green); whipped running stitch (dark brown whipped with orange); double laced running stitch (orange laced with green);  and red Pekinese stitch, not couched, on a base of (orange/ gold) double running stitch. The little stem is done in satin stitch.

Stitch sampler in the shape of a leaf
Leaf done in straight stitch variants

This little leaf design was inspired by a ceramic pin tray made for me by our roving photographer, J.J., who has done some delightful ceramic pieces. Inspiration can be found everywhere!

Ceramic leaf pin tray
Ceramic leaf pin tray
As you can see, some of these stitches, like the laced ones and Pekinese,  are wider than others, and you need to keep this in mind as you decide which ones and how many of them you want to use to outline the shape you have in mind. It is a good idea to keep these stitches close to one another inside a shape, but not necessarily touching each other. We gave you a link to an article about the very versatile chain stitch, showing it with some of the same techniques. In case you missed it, here is a close-up of the basic chain stitch:

Chain stitch sample
Chain stitch sample


followed by some of the chain stitch variations.

Chain stitch variations
Chain stitch variations
The rows are as follows:
    1) plain chain stitch in medium blue:
    2) chain back-stitched with a smaller white yarn from link to link;
    3) chain with double-running stitch, alternating white and navy yarns link to link;
    4) entire chain whipped (overcast) with the white yarn;
    5) each side of the chain whipped with thin navy yarn, stitched one side at a time from center out;
    6) Pekinese stitch done in white through the entire chain;
    7) entire chain laced (threaded) with white yarn, with the loops then stitched down at the tops with white sewing thread;
    8) entire chain laced with white yarn, first from one end, then from the other (double-laced) and then couched (stitched down) with a contrasting yarn.
You can mix the chain stitches with your straight stitches wherever you like.

You can work an entire shape with stitches like these, or you can use one or more to outline the shape and complete it by using a filling stitch on the center of the shape. One of the most versatile filling stitches is the cross-stitch. I tend to think of related stitches as belonging to stitch "families". Let's take a look at some members of the cross-stitch family.

Deatatched cross-stitch variations
Deatatched cross-stitch variations

    The stitches are, by row:
    a) Standard, evenly-spaced cross-stitch.
   b) Bi-color cross-stitch (left-to-right stitches in one color, right-to-left  stitches in a second).
    c) Cross-stitch with a vertical Holbein stitch across the center.
    d) Cross-stitch with a horizontal running stitch across the center.
    e) Whipped (overcast) cross-stitch;  don't pull the whipping stitch so tightly that you spoil the X-shape of the cross-stitch. The whipping thread is on the surface except at the ends of the row.
    f) Cross-stitch with both horizontal and vertical stitches (sometimes called double cross or George and Saint Andrew), which can be done in 1, 2, 3, or 4 colors.
    g) Bi-color cross-stitch laced with a third color. If you like, you can couch the centers of the arches down with a tiny stitch of sewing thread in the color of the background fabric.
    h) Standard continuous cross-stitch. The ends of the right-to-left stitches will share the same spaces as those of the left-to-right ones.

Look again at the last sample — the continuous cross-stitch. Notice how your eyes tend to focus on the diamond shapes between the cross-stitches, rather than on the X-shapes?  At the end of this article you will find a chart of continuous cross-stitches that have been embellished in various ways. See if you can determine what has been done to each row of continuous cross-stitches.  In at least one sample, two different variations have been combined.

Incidentally, for those of you who crochet, you can crochet lines of chain stitch and use it instead of embroidered chain for many decorative stitches. Pin it to your fabric, leaving a long enough piece of yarn at each end to thread and take to the back of your work to secure it. Use stitch patterns stitch over the spaces between links in the chain and couch it to the background fabric. We will show some examples of this in a later post.

Here is something you can do to with what we have done so far.
    1) Draw a leaf (or some other simple shape) — real or imaginary — on a piece of light-colored fabric.
    2) Collect several colors of yarn or floss, at least one crewel needle, a pair of scissors and an embroidery hoop.*
    3) Place the fabric in the hoop and pull it down tightly.
    4) Starting at the outline of your leaf, stitch completely around it with one of the stitches you have learned so far.  Use as many colors as were used in the sample of the stitch pattern.
    5) Repeat step 3 with at least 2 more (different) stitches inside the first outline. Stitch closely to the first outline, but not necessarily actually touching it.
    6) Choose one of the cross-stitch variations and use it — either singly or attached — to fill the remaining space. Again, use as many colors for each stitch as are shown on the samples.

* If you don't have an embroidery hoop, you can use an empty picture frame, overcasting the fabric snugly around the frame as seen in the picture on the left above.

Pulling thread from burlap
Pulling thread from burlap
Some of you may have less trouble following curves than you do following straight lines. If straight lines are a problem for you, try to find a firm but loosely woven fabric, like some polyester blends and decorator burlap, which have single threads that are easy to pull out of the cloth. Using the empty rows as guides, practice your stitch patterns until you feel confident that you have mastered them. I know that you will not like all of the patterns, but please try each one at least once.

Lazy Daisy stitch
Lazy Daisy stitch
Detached stitches can be used in rows or simply scattered randomly over the area you wish to fill (much like the diaper patterns used in blackwork). Lazy Daisy is detached chain stitch, often used to depict small flowers. If you want your flower to be symmetrical, it is a good idea to make a circle of dots on your background fabric and begin each loop by bringing your needle up through one of the dots.  The loops should be as uniform as possible.

Wheat ear stitch
Wheat ear stitch
Wheat ear, which has other names,  including tete de boeuf, meaning "cow's head", can be a single detached stitch. It consists of a two-stitch V and a couched-down chain stitch.  Make the V with two stitches that are wide-apart at the top and close together — but not quite touching — at the bottom.Bring your needle up at the junction of the two stitches and make a single chain stitch downward. Couch the free end of the chain with a small stitch.

This can also be a continuous line stitch. Instead of a two-stitch V, make a slightly loose vertical stitch and pull it into a V with your chain stitch.

Connected wheat ear stitches
Connected wheat ear stitches


Four-sided stitches
Four-sided stitches
The four-sided stitches can be shown as a detached stitch figures, making sure that adjacent stitches end in the same hole in the fabric. These can also be used diagonally, in which case they appear as diamonds. You can place these in rows or scatter them.  You may want to put a French knot in the center of each detached design. A slightly different construction overlaps the sides rather than ending them in the same place.

Even using only the few stitches you have learned, you can create an interesting design — and one that looks considerably more complex than it actually is, Just try one and see! Now here, as promised, are the samples of continuous cross-stitch for you to "decipher" and practice.

Create something!




Connected cross-stitch variations
Connected cross-stitch variations







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Monday, May 28, 2018

Spring Questions and Answers 2018

Butterflies, photo by jljardine
Butterflies, photo by J.J.
I have been looking for the pattern for the yellow (middle) butterfly from your wall hanging (March 21, 2016) I can find the orange one on the top and the purple one on the bottom. Did I miss a post somehow?

I’m afraid the “miss” was mine. I am so sorry. I was sure that I had posted it, but a thorough search of past posts did not find it. Here it is, with my apologies.

Butterfly Needle Arts Chart #4 downloadable as pdf
Click HERE to download

You said we should watch the Questions and Answers for more blackwork. Do you have more?

Blackwork fish quilt block
Blackwork fish quilt block
Yes. Here is the fish block. You will notice that it differs from the original stitch pattern. I usually stitch a pattern first and make changes before I do the printed pattern. This time I was working from a pattern I made years ago and had never done as embroidery. As I worked, I found I didn’t particularly agree with some of the stitch patterns that I originally drew. I liked the partial stitches for the back of the fish, considering they looked more “scaly”. On the other hand, I thought the pattern for the lower part of the fish’s body needed more stitching, not less. I curved the lines for the tiny bones in the top and bottom fins, working them in alternating lines of small chain stitch and backstitch. If you like the straight lines of the original pattern better, I suggest that you use a straight edge to put in light pencil lines on the fabric before working the lines in the stitch of your choice. Never follow a pattern if you think of one that you like better. My patterns are suggestions — not commands!

As it appeared when it was first finished, I thought the fish looked rather lonely. One of my “doodles” was of a small fish that might have belonged to the same family, so I gave her some for company. I like the finished block much better now.

Graph of small fish figure from quilt block
Graph of small fish from quilt block
Here is a little graph pattern for the “baby” fish.  I outlined them first. The interior lines are done in back stitch. The eye is a French knot. Fish change greatly during their lives, so they seldom look the same at all stages of their lives.  Many young fish are very nearly transparent, so you don’t need to put in many details. I didn’t make a transfer for the baby fish — just stitched them free-hand.


While I’m on the subject of fish patterns, here is the Siamese Fighting Fish (betta) that was done in reverse applique as it would appear as blackwork patterns. I told you I never discard a pattern I like!

Tropical fish done as blackwork pattern
Tropical fish done as blackwork pattern
Look for more about Blackwork and see more new patterns in our upcoming "Summer 2018  Questions and Answers" post.

You mention several stitches to use as outlines, but you seem to use chain stitch most of the time.  Why is that?
It is because the chain stitch has so many decorative possibilities itself. Once you establish it, you can embellish it in many ways. For example, you can:
  • backstitch the center of the chain;
  • do a double-running stitch down the center with two colors;
  • whip-stitch the chain;   
  • whip-stitch the sides of the chain separately;
  • work a Pekingese stitch through the chain;
  • interlace the chain;        
  • interlace the chain and then couch the laced loops down with a third color.

And that’s only the beginning!

Owls seem to be on people’s minds this month! That is shown by the following group of questions.

I’m working on the owl blackwork pattern and I’m really enjoying it, but I’m not sure what I am supposed to do with the parts that are solid black on the pattern?

I’m so glad you are enjoying the work. The solid black parts of the pattern, like the feet and the eyes, are supposed to be worked in solid stitching. I use Beauvais embroidery for mine. This is done in continuous chain stitch. I first outline the area with chain stitch. Instead of stopping when I join the ends of the outline, I move my needle just inside the outline and follow it around and around until no background shows through. You can do the same parts in satin stitch or long-and-short stitch, and outline them when they are completed. If making the circles for the eyes does not suit you, make them diamond shapes, with the corners touching the mid-points of the outer square. Or you can simply fill in the whole square with long, straight stitches. Your results will not be exactly like the pattern, but there is absolutely nothing wrong with that. Keep up the good work!


Little owl needlepoint picture


I did. I gave him a full moon to hunt by. Here he is, completed but not yet framed. I have not yet done the little fellow in Holbein stitch or counted cross-stitch, but you can easily stitch him in either technique from the pattern on the post for January 1, 2017, and give him any background that you like.


"Night Owls", Holbein embroidery on gingham
"Night Owls", Holbein embroidery on gingham
A long time ago you did a mother owl and her baby in colors. Are you going to print the pattern for that one?

Oh, my!  That was a very long time ago! That was a fairly large picture done in Holbein embroidery and the figures were larger than the blackwork animals that I have been making. I’m sure they would not fit a one-page pattern. Let me think about it. Maybe I can find a way to make them smaller without losing the Holbein patterns. In the meantime, here is the picture she is talking about.

Have you ever made a really BIG owl?

Small owl latch-hooked wall hanging



Well, I made a latch-hook wall hanging of an owl once that was larger than any of the owls you have seen in other techniques.





"Autumn Owl", large latch-hooked wall hanging
"Autumn Owl", large latch-hooked wall hanging
But last fall I made a really BIG owl. It all began with a dream I had about an owl being attacked by two boys with paintball guns. He suffered greatly, but one evening he awoke to hunt and something wonderful had happened. His feathers had turned to autumn colors. That wouldn’t be a problem while he hunted in the dark. In the daytime he could hide in trees where the leaves were turning autumn colors until the boys gave up hunting for him and turned to other pursuits. Waking, I thought,”What a nice story. I must write it down for Angie to tell her class.” (Angie is one of my “honorary” grand-daughters and a first-year kindergarten teacher.) I needed an illustration. J.D. and I thought of a poster the children had given me long ago of a bright-colored geometric owl. When we found it, however, it wasn’t as either of us remembered it. So I sat down with my rug canvas and yarn to recreate the owl of my dream. Here he is, just waking to find himself wonderfully changed.

Enjoy the Springtime!



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Wednesday, August 17, 2016

Summer Questions & Answers, 2016

Orange butterfly picture by J.J.
Orange butterfly picture by J.J.
“I made a hot-iron transfer from the Butterfly chart (June 1, 2016) according to your directions (October 6, 2013). I did the pattern with X's and did the embroidery in cross-stitch. My colors weren't all the same as the ones one the chart, but they were close. I put the butterfly on the back yoke of a denim shirt and I really like it. Now my 12-year-old daughter wants a butterfly on the back of her shirt and my pattern is too big. Do you have a smaller butterfly pattern I could use? It doesn't have to be the same butterfly.”

Thank you for telling me about the interesting way in which you used the pattern. I love to get information like that! I'll be glad to give you a pattern that should be small enough for your daughter's shirt. This one should be enough smaller to fit. I hope it does and that she likes it! This pattern is for the smallest of the three butterflies on the wall hanging (March 21, 2016). The colors represent those of a real butterfly, but you are free to use any colors you choose.

Small butterfly from latch hooked wall hanging
Small butterfly from latch hooked wall hanging
If your daughter wants her butterfly in the same colors as yours, you can do the following steps:

1. Leave the body of the butterfly (F) brown and the antennae black.
2. Substitute violet for the darkest brown (A) on the wings.
3. Substitute lavender for the light orange (B).
4. Substitute purple for the dark orange (C).
5. Substitute cream, white or whatever you used around the edges for the light tan (E) on the upper wings.
6. Substitute mauve or rose for the medium brown (D) on the lower wings.
Here's the chart.

Readers, look for a chart for the third (center) butterfly from the wall hanging on one of our autumn blog posts.

Butterflies come in a huge variety of colors, but the colors are not evenly distributed worldwide. Here in temperate North America, the main colors are black, white, yellow, orange and brown. Purple and blue are less common and true red and green are rare. However, those colors can be found on many butterflies from the tropics. In fact, you can make up a fanciful fantasy butterfly and later find out that a live one very similar to it exists somewhere on earth. I'm beginning to think that fact applies to flowers, too. A couple of years ago, I did a large needlepoint of a daylily, giving it all sorts of unusual shades of color. This spring I opened a garden catalog and there was “my” daylily being offered as a brand new variety!

“The little lion on checked gingham (July 31, 2016) is so cute! What stitches did you use?”

Head of lion on checked gingham
Head of lion on checked gingham
Basic blackwork (October 6, 2013) is done with 4 small, straight stitches: a vertical stitch in the center of the squares a horizontal stitch in the center of the squares, a stitch slanting from lower left to upper right, and a stitch slanting from lower right to upper left. If you combine the first two, you get a plus sign (+). If you combine the second two you get an x (a cross-stitch). The more of these stitches you place in a given square, the darker the area of stitching appears. The darkest area of the lion is that of his back legs, which were made by stitching a cross-stitch in each square and then stitching a horizontal stitch across the middle of each x. All the patterned areas were designed this way. Each individual area was outlined with plain chain stitch. The eyes, nose, tongue and fangs are done in solid chain (October 31, 2015), sometimes called Beauvais embroidery. You begin by outlining, but continue stitching around and around inside the outline until the area is completely filled with stitches. I'm glad you liked the little fellow!

Finally, some gardening questions, which I will turn over to J.D.

“What have you been able to grow in your straw bales? (April 30, 2016)”

Spice basil growing in straw bale
Spice basil growing in straw bale
The bale gardening experiment has had mixed results: in one batch of bales, I seeded summer savory, curled cress, sylvetta, chervil, and mustard spinach quite successfully and transplanted some fennel plants, all of which are doing pretty well. In another set of bales, things have not gone as well, though I do have one batch of a special spiced basil variety doing fairly well. In the third set, zilch. The limiting factor has been how thoroughly I could soak the bales regularly both before and after planting. The soaker hose setups popular in much of the literature simply can’t do the job in our arid climate. Fortunately, I can try again in the infertile bales next year with a new watering system.

“Your irises are so beautiful, and seem to grow so well! I haven’t had much luck with irises, but you’ve inspired me to order some from a catalog – they’ll be here in the fall. Any advice for me?”

Well, if you saw the collage of iris pictures in our July 10, 2016 post then you probably saw my instructions for transplanting in the same article. The only things I would add are: 1) Make sure you don’t cover the rhizome (the thick, gnarly part) when you cover the roots (the skinny, dangly parts) – the rhizome needs to breathe; 2) Make sure your soil has good drainage, irises don’t like wet feet. If you have clay or other heavy soil, add some sand or other amendment to be sure excess water drains and doesn’t stand where you’ve planted; 3) Don’t baby the irises, they seem to thrive on benign neglect.

good gnus iris
Iris, out by the alley...
A couple of years ago, Annake got three fancy batik irises of different colors. Two of these were planted in selected special locations, and carefully nursed along. They do all right, giving us a couple of nice blooms each year, but that’s about all. There was no good place for the third plant at the time, so I stuck it out by the alley, just out of the gravel, in a location that gets irregular sun and absolutely no irrigation. Of course, it has thrived – it’s multiplied and needs dividing now, and throws up multiple heavy blooms from every stalk.

“At one point you mentioned that you were going to try some new methods for starting plants. Did anything ever come of that?”

J.J., my sister, did forward me an article about starting cuttings in raw potatoes; so, I got a sack of cheap russets at the grocery store before I bothered to do any real research on the subject. I found out that many grocery store potatoes are treated in some fashion to keep them from sprouting in storage, and that these should NOT be used to start cuttings. Sure enough, not a single potato from that bag ever developed any ‘eyes’ (sprouts), and I tossed them all when they started to rot.

However...

About the time I brought those potatoes home, we found a stem broken off one of Annake’s potted geraniums on the greenhouse floor. Since I didn’t yet know any better, I bored a hole in one of the potatoes and stuck the stem in to try to salvage it, and put the whole assemblage on the back of the greenhouse bench. After my research, I knew nothing would come of the whole exercise, but I never got around to tossing the stem and potato on the compost pile. So, I was flabbergasted when Annake showed me the cutting a couple of weeks ago, not only growing but blooming!

geranium in potato
Geranium cutting blooming in a potato
It seems that the geranium never bothered to read the articles that said you can’t use treated potatoes.

Until next time: go make something, grow something, and have a great summer,





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Thursday, May 12, 2016

Designing from Coloring Books

A local (and loyal) reader asked me: “You said we could use a child's coloring book to make designs for needlework (April 10, 2016). Are you going to write a blog post about that?”

I'd be happy to do that. The picture I planned to use was from Landolls, Inc.'s Let's Color coloring and activity book, © 1993. (I never throw anything useful away!) But, to prevent any possible copyright infringement*, I'm substituting a sketch of one of my puppets in a similar pose. The advantage to such drawings is their simplicity, with large open areas. I've added back legs and feet, which wouldn't show on the puppet, and moved the front legs downward and the tail partially around from the back.

lion puppet
Lion puppet
Once I had a working sketch, I erased all the unnecessary pencil lines and traced the sketch on tracing paper with a wide-pointed permanent marker. I ran this through the copier to get an outline picture like those you might see in a child's coloring book. Click on the outline below to download it.

Now that I have the outline, how would I use it for needlework?

1) The use for applique seems obvious, especially in felt. Felt does not need to have its edges either turned under or overcast with stitches. It holds its shape well and comes in a wide range of colors. The first thing you have to know about felt applique is that you cannot just cut your picture up and use it as pattern pieces. You need to decide which pieces will overlap others and which pieces need to be cut out, even if they will never be seen. I used tracing paper again to make a set of the shapes I would need to pin to the felt to cut out the pieces for the applique. The picture is formed in layers with the shapes from the back layer sewn down first. You then work forward toward the front of the picture, overlapping pieces as you do so. To make this easier to visualize, J. D. took photographs at four stages in the development of the appliqued picture.

lion applique sequence
Lion applique sequence, steps 1 through 4
2) As for embroidery, the outlines could easily be done in plain chain (October 31, 2015) and the eyes, nose, teeth and tongue in satin stitch. If something more complicated is desired, the outlined sections could be filled in with solid chain stitch (Beauvais embroidery, January 31, 2016). Or do the picture in cross-stitch, or Spanish blackwork, perhaps on baby-checked gingham. Embroider each section in a different diaper pattern (October 6, 2013).

Transfer pencil on tracing paper
Transfer pencil on tracing paper
Do you want an easy way to transfer your outline to your fabric? Make a hot-iron transfer. Trace your outline on tracing paper with a hot-iron transfer pencil. These red pencils are made by several companies. I use Aunt Martha's®, 2 to a package for $2.99. Each pencil will make many transfers. Keep the pencil point sharp and go over the lines firmly until they look dark. Cut and press a piece of quarter-inch checked gingham about two inches larger on all sides than your outline design. Pin your transfer pattern (red-penciled side down) to the gingham, centering it with the checks. Press the transfer pattern on the back with a hot, dry iron (no steam). Press hard and go back and forth several times, but don't scorch the paper. It takes at least 5 seconds to get a good transfer. Unpin one corner and lift it carefully. Peek under it to see if your lines transferred. If not, re-pin it in the same place and iron over it until they do. Remember that your picture will appear reversed on the fabric, so avoid lettering or anything that looks “wrong” if reversed. The red lines will wash out of the fabric with warm water and a mild detergent once your project is finished.

Lion outline transferred to gingham
Lion outline transferred to gingham
I plan to do this sample in Holbein embroidery, which is done in blackwork patterns, but in many colors of embroidery floss. The transfer was ironed onto light yellow-green baby-checked gingham with a dry iron set for “cotton”'. You can use a transfer pattern on many plain-colored fabrics, too, but be sure to try a small sample transfer on the fabric first. Not all fabrics will accept a transfer. If you go over a transfer pattern again with the transfer pencil, pressing firmly, you can often use the pattern again. I file and save mine.

Lion latch hook front
Lion latch hook,  front
3) Draw the pattern on rug canvas, to be filled in with latch-hook knots (June 16, 2013). Ordinarily, I would work the background of the latch-hook picture as I made the picture itself. This time I did the picture and will fill in the background later. (These are all works-in-progress; I will show the finished items at a later date.)






Lion latch hook back
Lion latch hook, back
If you look at the back of the latch-hook lion and disregard the vertical lines of canvas, you can get a good idea of how the picture would look if it were done in tent stitch on quickpoint canvas.

I'm sure you can think of many other possibilities. Of course it is not necessary to use a cartoon animal as a design. There are many coloring books with more detailed, realistic pictures of birds, flowers, houses, automobiles, and nearly anything else you desire. Dover Publications has enough of those to keep you busy for a lifetime! If you want something more elaborate, look at some of the beautiful and intricate adult coloring books which have become very popular during the past year.

*These simple coloring book designs are perfectly acceptable when you are making projects for yourself and your household or for gifts. If you plan to sell your work at craft shows or shops, however, do not use any copyrighted materials in your designs. The legal complications can be awful. I will continue to give you suggestions in these blogs for creating your own original designs.

Thank you all for allowing me to discuss one of my favorite subjects. Now, design something of your own!




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Saturday, February 20, 2016

Winter Questions and Answers, 2016


Your embroidered plain chain stitch looks a lot like crocheted chain stitch. Is there a way to use crocheted chain stitch as embroidery?

Yes, there is. It looks good on things like sweatshirts, heavy sweaters, caps and mittens, too. Because it can only lie on the surface of the fabric, however, you will need to couch it down with embroidery stitches in the same yarn or a contrasting one. If you use contrasting yarns, you can create borders that are attractive in both color and texture. Some embroidery techniques are shown on top of crocheted chain in the samples below. The first group is done in a single color. These are: back-stitched chain, couching between the “links” in the chain, alternating couching worked from the centers outward at right angles, whipped chain and plain chain on top of the crocheted chain (like “double chain” in crewel).

crocheted chain sample 1


crocheted chain sample 2
Click picture for larger view
 The second group are done in two colors — and some can easily be done in more. These are: crocheted chain with double running stitch (red and blue); alternating couching of the crocheted chain in two colors (yellow and green); crocheted chain couched, with back-stitch over it (purple and blue); crochet chain back-stitched in red and then threaded in green; cross-stitch between “links” of the crocheted chain, with running stitch over the crosses (blue and purple); and two parallel rows of crocheted chain, back-stitched in red and interlaced in gold. Work all of the stitches in one color before going on to the next color. I find it works well to stitch one color left-to-right and the other color right-to-left. The green threaded and gold threaded stitches may be couched down. I would do this on a garment or any article that will get a lot of wear. Use tiny stitches in one strand of the yarn or floss, or use a matching sewing thread.

I suggest you place practice fabric in your hoop and make a chain a yard or meter long in order to practice each stitch pattern across the full width of your hoop. Leave a long “tail” when you begin your chain. Later you can thread this end into a crewel needle, take it to the back of your fabric and secure it. Cut your crochet yarn far enough beyond the last link in your chain that you can thread that end into a crewel needle, take it the back of your fabric and secure it. Pin the chain to the fabric every inch (2 ½ centimeters) or so. Don't stretch the crocheted chain out of shape. Don't pull couching stitches so tight that they disappear in the chain. You can use lighter or heavier weights of yarn for the embroidery if you wish. Or you can use crochet cotton, embroidery floss, or other materials.




What is the difference between the optical illusion block you showed last month and a 4-way bargello?
That's a very good question! The major difference is that the optical illusion (and the quilt block it is based on) are figured out in advance and the areas are drawn on the canvas before the stitching is begun. You may or may not put in the horizontal and vertical center lines and the diagonals — depending on the pattern. Ordinarily you would begin at the center and work your way out to the edges. The design will be basically the same whatever canvas and yarn you use. Back-stitching is often an important feature of the design. For me, the challenge is in drawing the design precisely in order to get the effect I want.
The 4-way design is not unchanging like the optical designs; it changes and evolves as you stitch. It is best to begin all such designs by drawing in the vertical and horizontal center lines and the diagonals. A 4-way usually begins with a pattern line, rather than a shape to fill in. (There are exceptions; see “Hearts Afire”, December 22, 2014 post, which does depend on a definite shape, for example.) A four-way usually begins several (sometimes many) rows of canvas from the center. Instead of being worked outward from the center, it is worked both outward and inward from the pattern line. The design changes rapidly — often in surprising ways. Back-stitching is not regularly used. I get the most pleasure from starting with a pattern line which surprises me as it unfolds.

There are similarities between the two techniques, however. Both need to be centered on the finished canvas. Both tend to be square when finished. Both use the upright Gobelin stitch. Both may benefit from being turned ninety degrees as you work on the various parts of the design. Both depend on a careful selection of shades of color for their best visual effects. Neither leaves empty squares of canvas in the design; stitches share canvas squares. Both are fun to do and satisfying to complete.

I really like the optical illusions from quilt blocks. They look like fun. But they're square, and I hardly ever see square frames. Are you going to do any that fit rectangular frames?

King's cross pattern
I've just adapted the “King's Cross” design for a rectangular frame. The sketch will work with any three-color combination as long as the white sections are in the lightest color, the pencil-shaded sections are a darker shade of the same or a similar color, and the inked-in triangles are in a very dark color. You will notice that the pairs of triangles are not quite the same. Also, the shapes that were parallelograms in the original pattern are now polygons. These are large areas, so use a heavier yarn than usual or double your regular yarn to cover the canvas completely. Once again, I recommend doing the triangles in basket-weave, starting at the center points and working outward this time. Any irregularities where two colors of yarn join, or at the edges, may be covered by back-stitching if you choose.



king's cross diagram
Click on diagram for larger view
I did this pattern for a 5-inch X 7-inch frame (13 X 18 centimeters), but I can show you how to adapt it for any rectangular frame. Turn the frame upside-down on your canvas and draw around the opening with a pencil. Remove the frame. (If necessary, use a ruler or straight-edge to square the corners and make the sides straight.) Leave extra canvas around the rectangle so that you can tape the edges. Find the center of the rectangle and mark it with a dot (O on the diagram), continuing to use a pencil. Find the centers of the top and bottom — the short sides — and mark them with dots (A). Find the centers of the long sides and mark them (B). Mark the four corners (C). Mark the centers of the lines between the A's and the center O (D). Mark the centers between the B's and the O (E). Mark the centers between the C's and the A's (F) and the centers between the C's and the B's (G). Now connect the dots as follows:

  • A-O-A
  • B-O-B
  • Both C-O-C's
  • Both E's on the top and bottom with the nearest D
  • Both G's on the sides with the nearest E
  • You may then erase the A-D and the B-E lines if you wish to do so.

Now you are ready to begin stitching.

If you like squares and rectangles, just wait until we get to hexagons!





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