Saturday, February 29, 2020

Roots, Leaves, & S.T.E.M.: Our Anniversary Issue, 2020

colored pencil sketch of a tree
Pencil sketch by Annake
Welcome to our 168th post, and the beginning of this blog’s 8th year. While it does not seem that long since I talked Annake into doing this blog, things have really changed in the world, even our remote little piece of it. And we’ve changed, too, with different wants, needs, and capabilities than we had when we began.

So, we have decided to emphasize three areas in the coming year in this blog: first, art forms and techniques which have fallen out of fashion and could be forgotten; second, using art to support causes that are important to us, like promoting women in art and preserving endangered wildlife; and finally, presenting you — our readers — with more tools and techniques which can be used in a variety of forms and styles, so you can better make the art you want and make it uniquely yours.

Below are some of the things we've been thinking about.
J.D., Annake's Garden Gnome

Collage of bull paintings through history
Bulls: 1) Lascaux cave, 15,000 BCE  2) Egyptian tomb, 1000 BCE  3) Goya lithograph, 1825

Roots

J.D.: Roots are the beginnings of things, the first attempts to satisfy the most basic needs. When a seed germinates, the first thing to emerge is the root, seeking immediate sustenance and a hold on its place in its environment. Humans,  have much the same basic survival needs, like food, protection from the elements, safety from predators. But just beyond these immediate needs, there seems to be a strong need to express one's self. In even the mot primitive societies, people use whatever is at hand to decorate themselves, their possessions, and their immediate surroundings. These decorations are very individualistic — a way to say, "This is me!"

ANNAKE: I'm sometimes asked why I discuss the history of an art form in my articles, or why I trace the changes in it over a long period of years.  I simply believe that knowing something about the origins of a genre will help you understand its processes better.  It certainly does that for me.  I also like to know how it has progressed over time and how it adapted to the tastes. economy and customs of different historic periods. That helps me to design activities that relate to the present, whether it be the raw materials or tools that I use,  new techniques, themes that are currently popular or appropriate, or ways to use the principles of the genre in a totally different art form.

Much of the history of these technologies (and, yes, that is exactly what they are) has been lost in time because the materials used were bio-degradable and were only preserved under unusual circumstances, like the tombs of the Egyptian Pharaohs.  But enough survived to make inroads in the mystery, and, after trading became widespread, it is possible to trace the development of certain techniques and even styles.

J.D.: Pigments wash off, flake off, fade in the weather. Feathers, hides, wood — even bone — weather and decay over time. Still, the more we find in archaeological digs, the further back in time we push decorative processes. This is certainly true of the fiber arts, which have been the main focus of this blog. Until just over a century ago, textile fibers were one of the most fragile and transient materials in common use. Specimens of clothing, fabric, and needlework from as recently as 1,000 years ago are very rare, and most of what we know about fiber arts before about 2,000 years ago comes from implements and depictions in other media like painting.

ANNAKE: Embroidery, like other techniques, evolves over time.  It evolved from sewing, which has been around for at least 30,000 years. This was the sewing which made survival in the cold possible.  Also sail-making, which made travel along the ancient rivers like the Tigris, Euphrates, and Nile possible and led to sailing on seas and oceans. Tent-making, which allowed nomadic tribes to venture into and across unknown territories, also contributed. The tent stitch used in needlepoint is a tent-maker's and sail-maker's stitch.  Basket-making and weaving contributed patterns.

For much of recorded history, art forms, including the fiber arts, were limited to possession by churches and other religious institutions, royalty, and a few people who who had become wealthy through banking and trade. Now they are within the reach of the general public. Partly this is due to the proliferation of modern materials. For example, it it is not only possible to embroider with silk, linen, or wool, but also with rayon, nylon, cotton, acrylics, metallics, even bamboo.

collage of arts with mixed technologies
 1) Folk art, traditional materials and methods  2) Traditional needlepoint, high tech design aids  3) Needlepoint, acrylic yarn on plastic canvas (modern materials)


Leaves

J.D.: Leaves are the part of the plant where most of the work takes place. Their most important job is to provide the fuel which lets the plant grow, survive, and reproduce. They take in oxygen to burn for fuel, and get rid of the exhaust fumes. They have different sizes and colors, different shapes, always variations in small details. Leaves are the first place a plant experiments and adjusts itself to get the most out of its environment. Leaves are the first place where changes in the plant's health or challenges from a changing environment appear. They are the first place where extreme or unusual temperature changes, changes in soil chemistry or the amount of light, and attacks by parasites or diseases show up. Plants have evolved methods to counteract environmental crises; these show as changes in the leaves.

ANNAKE: I tend to think of kinds of art as being like the branches and leaves of a tree — some growing out from the same cluster, but differing slightly from each other; others supporting old, traditional pursuits, then suddenly sending out a new and atypical branch or two,

Art has moved further toward abstraction in recent years, going first through a period of minimalism. Today, however, it is trending toward more color, more contrast, the juxtaposition of shapes, and the emphasis on surface textures.  Needle arts and other art forms that we feature lend themselves to these trends. For example, I recently did an article on Assisi work.  In this period of marches and demonstrations, the technique — whether or not it is used in needlework — lends itself greatly to signs and slogans, as well as to more traditional subject matter.

J.D.: If you think of the forms and styles of needle arts that Annake has explored in this blog as leaves, you can often see results of changes in economic and social environments. The rise of the middle class in Europe resulted in needlepoint as a less expensive substitute for woven tapestry. The Muslim conquest of Spain resulted in geometric patterns that became blackwork, which English royalty enthusiastically embraced. Changes in trade flow with East Asia influenced the availability of silk,  popularity of different styles of garments, and the needlework that decorated them. The development of coal tar dyes in the 19th Century and synthetic fibers in the 20th have revolutionized how we approach fiber arts.

ANNAKE: We have learned that hands-on activities are very important in improving learning abilities. Having spent half a century as an educator,  I learned early to introduce creative activities into my curriculum whether I was dealing with kindergarten children or college students, G.I.'s, Seniors, or people needing physical or occupational therapy.  That is a pretty large portion of society. I believe we should encourage creative practices whenever we can.

S.T.E.M. collage
1) Color theory  2) Annake at the computer  3) Re-engineered kitchen cart  4) Designing a six-way needlepoint


S.T.E.M.

J.D.: The stem is the part of a plant that provides the structural integrity which holds the leaves up where they can get the sunlight they need to accomplish their tasks, and that maintains the link between the roots and the leaves. Unlike leaves, stems are seldom disposable: as the cells of the stem age, or even die, they remain incorporated in the growing structure which supports all the other above-ground parts and functions of the plant. You can read the entire life history of a tree in the rings of its trunk.

S.T.E.M. is also a very "in vogue" acronym in the U.S., standing for "Science, Technology, Engineering, and Mathematics"; areas of study Americans feel are essential for young people to be well-versed in to obtain good jobs and to support the massive and complex economy we depend upon for security, comfort, and the continuation of the society we are used to.

"Science" does not require armies of lab-coated nerds in laboratories full of glistening machinery and odd-shaped bottles full of unpronounceable contents. "Science" is what happened when one of our paleolithic ancestors noticed that herds of edible creatures seemed to be at a particular spot when the sun was at a very specific place in the sky, and determined to be hunting with a spear at that spot the next time that happened.

"Technology" is not the latest electronic gadget. It is as simple as learning that, when you strike two particular kinds of rock together in a certain way, one of them will flake off with a very useful, extremely sharp edge.

"Engineering"' does not need to feature pages (or screens) of arcane symbols, numbers, and calculations. It can be as basic as figuring how best to attach that sharp rock you just cut to a stick with some resin so that it will stay attached and you won't cut your fingers with it.

"Mathematics" was what your thousand-times great-grandfather used to figure how many spearheads he needed to flake to replace the ones lost or broken during the last hunt. I' m not going to suggest that what most people think of when they see or hear "S.T.EM." is not important and worthwhile to invest time, effort, and money into its study.  What I do want to say is that S.T.E.M. is a basic set of problem-solving tools, mindsets, disciplines, and points-of-view that people have used to survive and prosper since the beginning of human consciousness.  All those steps in between, from sharpening stones to making smart phones, are a history of how people used these disciplines; and they are still with us, like the  growth rings in the tree trunk.

ANNAKE: And you should be using those disciplines every day, even in something as "old-fashioned" as needlework. You don't need to invent anything. Just learn what's available and choose the best options for what you want to make. Do you need a sharp needle or a blunt one? Long or short? Large eye or small eye? Yarn or floss? Fabric or canvas? Colors? It is as easy as that. The result of your decisions will be something uniquely yours that would have never existed if you hadn't created it. (On the other hand, if you find a way to use existing tools and materials in a novel way..... Congratulations! You have just invented a new technology!)

J.D.: Engineering is often a matter of improvisation, like using a picture frame in place of a large embroidery hoop that you don't have. Or it might be a matter of using a common tool for a purpose it was never intended to fill, but which fits your situation well.  Design a tool that works well for you, but isn't on the market. You're an engineer!

It is almost impossible to avoid math while doing needlework, even if you are only counting threads in fabric or squares in canvas, figuring how much yarn it will take to crochet an afghan, or plotting a graph-paper pattern.

ANNAKE: I would like to challenge all you readers to make something original with your hands. (Hey, J.D., is it okay if I dare them to do it?)

J.D.:
It works for me.

makers collage
What will you make?
















 Creative Commons LicenseThis post by Annake's Garden is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License.

Wednesday, February 19, 2020

Crewel Embroidery: More Stitch Families

Chrysanthemum embroidey
Vintage crewel on white linen (Annake's collection)
In our Back to the Crewel World article, I gave you several examples of straight stitches and showed you how to embellish them with techniques like whipping and lacing. Now I am going to show you how to use those stitches to outline a simple shape. All of them can be used to follow curves as well as straight lines. They work best for this procedure if you keep the stitches as close to the same length as possible.  The leaf shape was outlined with backstitching in moss green.  The other stitches — in order from the outline inward —  are: running stitch (gold); double running stitch (gold/pale green); whipped running stitch (dark brown whipped with orange); double laced running stitch (orange laced with green);  and red Pekinese stitch, not couched, on a base of (orange/ gold) double running stitch. The little stem is done in satin stitch.

Stitch sampler in the shape of a leaf
Leaf done in straight stitch variants

This little leaf design was inspired by a ceramic pin tray made for me by our roving photographer, J.J., who has done some delightful ceramic pieces. Inspiration can be found everywhere!

Ceramic leaf pin tray
Ceramic leaf pin tray
As you can see, some of these stitches, like the laced ones and Pekinese,  are wider than others, and you need to keep this in mind as you decide which ones and how many of them you want to use to outline the shape you have in mind. It is a good idea to keep these stitches close to one another inside a shape, but not necessarily touching each other. We gave you a link to an article about the very versatile chain stitch, showing it with some of the same techniques. In case you missed it, here is a close-up of the basic chain stitch:

Chain stitch sample
Chain stitch sample


followed by some of the chain stitch variations.

Chain stitch variations
Chain stitch variations
The rows are as follows:
    1) plain chain stitch in medium blue:
    2) chain back-stitched with a smaller white yarn from link to link;
    3) chain with double-running stitch, alternating white and navy yarns link to link;
    4) entire chain whipped (overcast) with the white yarn;
    5) each side of the chain whipped with thin navy yarn, stitched one side at a time from center out;
    6) Pekinese stitch done in white through the entire chain;
    7) entire chain laced (threaded) with white yarn, with the loops then stitched down at the tops with white sewing thread;
    8) entire chain laced with white yarn, first from one end, then from the other (double-laced) and then couched (stitched down) with a contrasting yarn.
You can mix the chain stitches with your straight stitches wherever you like.

You can work an entire shape with stitches like these, or you can use one or more to outline the shape and complete it by using a filling stitch on the center of the shape. One of the most versatile filling stitches is the cross-stitch. I tend to think of related stitches as belonging to stitch "families". Let's take a look at some members of the cross-stitch family.

Deatatched cross-stitch variations
Deatatched cross-stitch variations

    The stitches are, by row:
    a) Standard, evenly-spaced cross-stitch.
   b) Bi-color cross-stitch (left-to-right stitches in one color, right-to-left  stitches in a second).
    c) Cross-stitch with a vertical Holbein stitch across the center.
    d) Cross-stitch with a horizontal running stitch across the center.
    e) Whipped (overcast) cross-stitch;  don't pull the whipping stitch so tightly that you spoil the X-shape of the cross-stitch. The whipping thread is on the surface except at the ends of the row.
    f) Cross-stitch with both horizontal and vertical stitches (sometimes called double cross or George and Saint Andrew), which can be done in 1, 2, 3, or 4 colors.
    g) Bi-color cross-stitch laced with a third color. If you like, you can couch the centers of the arches down with a tiny stitch of sewing thread in the color of the background fabric.
    h) Standard continuous cross-stitch. The ends of the right-to-left stitches will share the same spaces as those of the left-to-right ones.

Look again at the last sample — the continuous cross-stitch. Notice how your eyes tend to focus on the diamond shapes between the cross-stitches, rather than on the X-shapes?  At the end of this article you will find a chart of continuous cross-stitches that have been embellished in various ways. See if you can determine what has been done to each row of continuous cross-stitches.  In at least one sample, two different variations have been combined.

Incidentally, for those of you who crochet, you can crochet lines of chain stitch and use it instead of embroidered chain for many decorative stitches. Pin it to your fabric, leaving a long enough piece of yarn at each end to thread and take to the back of your work to secure it. Use stitch patterns stitch over the spaces between links in the chain and couch it to the background fabric. We will show some examples of this in a later post.

Here is something you can do to with what we have done so far.
    1) Draw a leaf (or some other simple shape) — real or imaginary — on a piece of light-colored fabric.
    2) Collect several colors of yarn or floss, at least one crewel needle, a pair of scissors and an embroidery hoop.*
    3) Place the fabric in the hoop and pull it down tightly.
    4) Starting at the outline of your leaf, stitch completely around it with one of the stitches you have learned so far.  Use as many colors as were used in the sample of the stitch pattern.
    5) Repeat step 3 with at least 2 more (different) stitches inside the first outline. Stitch closely to the first outline, but not necessarily actually touching it.
    6) Choose one of the cross-stitch variations and use it — either singly or attached — to fill the remaining space. Again, use as many colors for each stitch as are shown on the samples.

* If you don't have an embroidery hoop, you can use an empty picture frame, overcasting the fabric snugly around the frame as seen in the picture on the left above.

Pulling thread from burlap
Pulling thread from burlap
Some of you may have less trouble following curves than you do following straight lines. If straight lines are a problem for you, try to find a firm but loosely woven fabric, like some polyester blends and decorator burlap, which have single threads that are easy to pull out of the cloth. Using the empty rows as guides, practice your stitch patterns until you feel confident that you have mastered them. I know that you will not like all of the patterns, but please try each one at least once.

Lazy Daisy stitch
Lazy Daisy stitch
Detached stitches can be used in rows or simply scattered randomly over the area you wish to fill (much like the diaper patterns used in blackwork). Lazy Daisy is detached chain stitch, often used to depict small flowers. If you want your flower to be symmetrical, it is a good idea to make a circle of dots on your background fabric and begin each loop by bringing your needle up through one of the dots.  The loops should be as uniform as possible.

Wheat ear stitch
Wheat ear stitch
Wheat ear, which has other names,  including tete de boeuf, meaning "cow's head", can be a single detached stitch. It consists of a two-stitch V and a couched-down chain stitch.  Make the V with two stitches that are wide-apart at the top and close together — but not quite touching — at the bottom.Bring your needle up at the junction of the two stitches and make a single chain stitch downward. Couch the free end of the chain with a small stitch.

This can also be a continuous line stitch. Instead of a two-stitch V, make a slightly loose vertical stitch and pull it into a V with your chain stitch.

Connected wheat ear stitches
Connected wheat ear stitches


Four-sided stitches
Four-sided stitches
The four-sided stitches can be shown as a detached stitch figures, making sure that adjacent stitches end in the same hole in the fabric. These can also be used diagonally, in which case they appear as diamonds. You can place these in rows or scatter them.  You may want to put a French knot in the center of each detached design. A slightly different construction overlaps the sides rather than ending them in the same place.

Even using only the few stitches you have learned, you can create an interesting design — and one that looks considerably more complex than it actually is, Just try one and see! Now here, as promised, are the samples of continuous cross-stitch for you to "decipher" and practice.

Create something!




Connected cross-stitch variations
Connected cross-stitch variations







 Creative Commons LicenseThis post by Annake's Garden is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License.

Monday, February 10, 2020

The Non-Colors and Metallics: All About Color, Part III

Gray scale in five steps
Gray scale in five steps, from black to white

Technically, black is not a color, but rather the absence of color. If we are talking about light, there isn't any. (For more background, see All About Color Part I and Part II.)  If we refer to pigment, black has absorbed all the colors. Theoretically, if you want to make black pigment, you can do so by combining the 3 primary colors, the 3 secondary colors, or the 6 tertiary colors in the right proportions. Most of us just buy the black materials. 

Raven sculpture
Raven sculpture from J.D.'s collection
Culturally, black has been handicapped by negative connotations, particularly in Western cultures. It is associated with death and mourning,  When I was a child, people still placed black mourning wreaths on the doors of homes where someone had died. In old Western movies, the "good guys" could always be identified by their white hats, while the "bad guys" wore black hats. In some cultures, black cats, dogs, and birds like crows and ravens were messengers of disaster.  Black signifies night, the unknown, mystery and intrigue. We talk about "black moods" caused by depression or suppressed anger.  "Black magic" indicates witchcraft.  A "black mark" against us is harmful to our reputations.  Even when opinions and customs change, such expressions linger in the language.

Ancient Egyptian painting (public domain)
Ancient Egyptian agriculture
On the other hand, the "little black dress" is the height of fashion —  sophisticated (and slimming). Black satin, velvet. and lace are romantic fabrics. If we are out of debt, we are "in the black". Black automobiles and other vehicles are extremely popular.  A black tuxedo evokes elegance and important occasions. Black print is still the easiest to read. (Please take note, manufacturers of who think printing contents and directions in pale yellow on light blue is even slightly effective!) I think the ancient Egyptians had the right idea. They celebrated black. It was the color of the soil in the Nile delta, which gave them life, health, and prosperity.  Black is indeed beautiful.

Red, Red Rose needlepoint in progress
Annake's "Red, Red Rose" needlepoint, in progress




A black background makes other colors in a composition appear lighter, and brighter, making them appear to advance toward the viewer.  Artists who made good use of this effect were the Dutch still life painters who painted large, fanciful floral bouquets against deep black backgrounds.  I like using the technique in needlepoint.






Wrought iron wine rack
Wrought iron wine rack
Black does not "clash" with colors. This makes it great for trimming, framing, hanging, etc.  It is a mainstay in many kinds of needlework I use black back-stitching in all sorts of needlework and make many samples of blackwork diaper patterns (for instance, see this post or this one.) Wrought iron furniture and accessories can be used indoors just as well as on patios.

White light is the presence of all colors. White pigment is the absence of all colors. It is useful for all sorts of backgrounds, from paper, canvas, and walls to picture frames and mats.  White wicker furniture is also fashionable indoors as well as outdoors.  White garments are associated with celebrations — weddings, christenings, graduations, etc.  White statuary and ceramics are elegant.  Many kinds of needlework are done on white canvas or linens. Colors appear darker on white than they do on other colors.  The colors that we call black and white are often just very dark or very light values of primary, secondary, or tertiary colors.

Variety of white materials
In Western cultures, white symbolizes innocence, from a baby's christening dress to a bride's gown. But in many Asian and some African countries, white is the color of mourning. A white flag is the signal for surrender;  a white feather, a sign of cowardice. A frightened person is "white as a sheet". To cover up something unsavory, we "whitewash" it. Again, we usually buy white fabric, paint, or yarn instead of trying to bleach the raw materials.

Begin with black and gradually add white and you get gray. Begin with white and add black to it gradually and you get gray. "True" gray is 50% black and 50% white. "Cool" grays have a bluish or greenish tint.  "Warm"  grays have a reddish or yellowish tint.

Cool gray vs. warm gray
Cool gray vs. warm gray


Barred owl print by Annake
"Barred Owl",  print by Annake
Gray also has negative connotations — gray skies, gray hair, gray clouds, ashes, lead. We talk of "gray areas" where there is confusion and inactivity and problems often don't get solved. It is considered a dull or depressing color.  In Nature, however, gray is a color that camouflages and supports gray wolves and whales, elephants, tree bark, fur, feathers — and on and on.








Snow leopard print by Annake
"Snow Leopard", print by Annake
An art instructor in a class I took in Panama called me a "color freak" and said that if something didn't have color in it that I didn't want to look at it. How wrong she was! Most of my serious artwork is done in #2 pencil, grades of graphite, charcoal, pastels, diluted ink, ashes — anything that gives me the effect that I desire. To me, gray is the color of structure — the contours of flesh and muscle, the bones beneath the skin — and of surfaces — the softness of fur,  sleekness of feathers, coarseness of bristles, roughness of scales, sharpness of spines.  Gray is the most tactile color I know.


The Tiger Vanishes, print by Annake

You certainly don't need color to recognize the message in The Tiger Vanishes.

Poinsettias in gold and silver
Poinsettias in gold and silver
Finally, I would like to say something about metallics.  This might refer to metal objects used to decorate a room, frames or hangers for artworks,  objects grouped for a still life painting or photograph — even to the settings for jewelry. But they also refer to metallic thread or floss, fabric, trimming, foils and paint. The first working of metals is usually credited to the ancient Middle East. Ancient cultures in that area, Egypt, and areas in and around the Aegean Sea used gold, silver, copper and bronze.

Inca gold (public domain)
Pre-Columbian 24k Inca gold
Gold is a warm, shiny color. Gold (or gold-colored) ribbon, thread, rick-rack, beads, foil, etc., can enhance many kinds of compositions. In painting, golden objects have bright yellow highlights and darker yellow or orange overtones. Remember that objects — particularly shiny, reflective ones — cast shadows in their complementary colors. Therefore, a golden object will have a violet or blue-violet tinted shadow. Pure gold is very soft. My husband brought home a gold charm from the Orient.  I was surprised and disappointed to find out how soft it was and how little handling it took to blur its features. In order to be used for coins and jewelry the gold must be alloyed with a harder metal, usually silver. Pure gold is designated 24 k (karat); most jewelry is 14k to 18k.

Hammered copper pot
Hammered copper pot
Copper is a very warm-colored metal with reddish and orange overtones. It was produced by smelting about 8,700 years ago in what is now Serbia, and is one of the most versatile metals. I like copper pots for decorating and copper wire for embellishments. Copper's shadows should contain blue or blue-green tones.






Cast bronze belt buckle
Cast bronze belt buckle
Bronze is an alloy of copper, tin, and occasionally other elements. It has many commercial uses. Artistically, it is very popular for casting large statues, smaller figurines, and trophies. Remember that Olympic medals are awarded in gold, silver, and bronze. Bronze was widely used in the Near East and the Aegean civilizations, gradually spreading as far as Scandinavia by about 2,300 BC (BCE). It was such a popular metal in Europe from at least 2,800 BC (BCE), to 1,200 BC (BCE), that this period was called the Bronze Age.

Brass insignia (US Army)
Brass insignia (US Army)
Brass is essentially an alloy of copper and zinc, widely used in some kinds of musical instruments.  Although it is used less frequently for jewelry and designer items, it is also warm. Brass can take a fairly high polish, but when it is placed next to gold. the difference becomes obvious. Its use as uniform buttons for military and police officers has led to the nickname for higher officials — who have more insignia and braid on their uniforms — to be referred to collectively as "the Brass". I use brass buttons occasionally for decorative purposes.

Silver concho
Silver concho
Silver is cool and shiny; it is widely used in jewelry, serving utensils, coinage and medals. Silver buttons and trims of various kinds can be used on garments or needlework. One art form in which gold and silver foil (very thin sheets) are used, and copper foil is becoming popular, is scratchboard. A picture or design is incised in very fine lines on the foil so that a black background shows through. A heavier copper foil can be used in embossing.  The foil is placed over a mold of fairly hard material and then pressed over the mold with an embossing tool.  All kinds of foil, including the decorative ones used by florists, can be used in collages.

Pewter tankard
Pewter tankard
Pewter is made of tin and lead. It was used widely in dishes until the toxicity of lead was realized. I love the soft look of it, only slightly reflective. Look at this pewter tankard.  Think of the challenge in portraying it accurately with graphite and pastels.

Embrace the non-colors!







Wnter Scene print by J.D.
"Winter Scene", print by J.D.

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