Cuttings from Annake's Garden: July 2021

I have read all the articles in your Archive, back to the beginning, about Blackwork. Are you going to do any more on that subject?

Goodness! You must really like that technique! I hope you also read the information on Redwork and Whitework, which use similar techniques. Today I am going to discuss a technique I call China Bluework, which I hope will please you. As is often true when discussing any kind of artwork, it is necessary to give some background information.

Jade pendant &earrings, ivory earrings, white silk

From the 16th through the 18th Centuries wealthy people in Europe were importing a great number of things from China, including porcelain, jade, carved ivory and silk. The porcelain pieces included dishes, pitchers, jewelry boxes, plaques and tiles, many of which were decorated with scenes and delicate designs in one to three shades of blue on white porcelain.

It wasn't long before European countries decided to "cash in" with similar ware. The most successful were the Dutch. The best pieces, which came to be called Delft Blue, were made in factories in or near Delft, Holland, beginning about 1620. Although the potters called their ware "porcelain", it was a cheap copy of real Chinese porcelain, which was made from porcelain clay. These pieces were made from an inferior clay and were coated with a glaze after they were fired. Nevertheless, handsome pieces were made. At one time, there were more than 300 factories. Only one, Royal Dutch, exists today. The little pitcher you see here, which has been in my family for generations, was probably made in the Makkum, Friesland factory, since my grandmother was born in Friesland. The factory, on an island off the coast of the Dutch mainland, was established in 1594. It was still operating after World War II and may have gone on for some time after that.

I think these three patterns are ones that we have not shown before. I have done each one in a single color to make the design easier to follow, but there is no reason that you cannot use as many colors as you like. If you are using the design to cover a large area, "stack" the repeats of the design without spaces between them. You may have to add some small joining stitches to anchor the rows. If there are places where you cannot work all of the design, work as much of each row as you can. You may want to separate the areas of your finished work with a single row of stitching in something like outline or chain stitch to give it a more elegant effect.

Hereafter I will call this technique Bluework. You will need at least 3 distinct shades of blue yarn or floss. It should be worked on a white or pale cream background if you want authenticity. Another way to use the three shades of blue would be in a sampler of designs, using all three shades of blue, that would be suitable for framing. Each one could also be used alone as an all-over pattern for something like a pillow top. I will take up the topic of samplers again in a future article.

Here is a simple Oriental design to be worked in straight stitches as well as Bluework patterns. I would suggest that you use more than just the light, medium, and dark blue flosses or yarns and collect more shades of blue, perhaps adding blue-greens and blue-violets. The arches are in satin stitch done vertically and the back braces of the bridge are worked horizontally. The little finials at the tops of the bridge gates are made with three French knots. The water is done with alternating medium and light blues to suggest motion and reflection, using something like chain stitch for texture.

I have broken with tradition to also present the bridge in the red that is usually used on such bridges. The large areas should be outlined with stitches. You can wait to do this until the patterns are done. I prefer to outline first. I then do as much of the pattern stitch as I can, slide the point of my needle under the outline and secure the stitch on the back of the work. There is quite a bit of empty sky at the top of the pattern. You may want to put in a cloud or two, the sun, kites flying, etc. I indicated a couple of birds coming down for a drink as an example.

You can download a (hand-drawn) pattern for this design here. Have fun!

In your recent post about the summer solstice, you said that all the countries in one quiz are in the Northern Hemisphere; but what about Egypt?

No. The statement that all were in the Northern Hemisphere referred to the sentence immediately preceding it, which suggested a person might need a map to find unfamiliar countries like Latvia or Croatia. I assume that almost anyone could find Egypt on a map or globe. (Incidentally, Egypt is in the Northern Hemisphere; the majority of it is even above the Tropic of Cancer. Check it for yourself!)

From time to time you decorate your articles with border designs. Are you going to do some more of those?

Your question fit so neatly with the one about blackwork that I decided to devote most of this Q and A to design work. I have indeed been working on a series of border designs, beginning with simple ones shown singly and then designs doubled by working them also in reverse. Patterns like those can often be adapted to other techniques, such as counted cross-stitch or Swedish weaving. (You can use the Search feature in our sidebar to find articles on such subjects if you have missed them.) As usual, I recommend doing one or two samples or small projects in ANY new technique before starting a larger project. Too many of those get abandoned before they are completed. Also, don't be afraid to combine two or more techniques in your own original designs. Express your personality.

Here are some simple one-color designs. They can be used vertically or horizontally. With a little careful shifting around, the leaf motif could even make a "frame" for a picture or canvas. The stitches can be done in counted cross-stitch or solid satin stitch in floss on even-weave fabric or checked gingham, or in upright stitches (gobelin) on needlepoint canvas. Try the stitches on scraps of different weaves or patterned backgrounds until you find a combination that you like.

Sometimes a simple design can be improved by mirror-imaging it like this sample. I also added an additional row of the red border in the middle of the reversed design to make it show up better. The technique is something you can try on any border design which has a straight-edged base. If you don't like the white parts of the design, use an additional color, but keep that color light because you already have a dark and a medium color in the design. To make a narrow border from a wide one, find the center of the design and cut the design apart horizontally.

Here are some more simple border designs that have been doubled.

Color schemes can be revised endlessly. Take time to experiment on scraps of fabric before you start a large project. Or make an old-fashioned "sampler" of designs. You may find such a piece worthy of framing and hanging. On a personal note, I sincerely hope that at least some of you who are dedicated "stitchers" will take the time and effort to pass on your skills to young people and give them a start on their own Adventures With Stitches.

Enjoy your work!