Return to Reverse Applique

Tropical Fish Wall Hanging from June, 2016

As we promised, we are re-visiting a popular project and offering another pattern for the same technique. To the left is the completed reverse-applique of a tropical fish. (For extensive directions for doing this type of reverse applique, see the post for June 24, 2016.)

First, let me explain the changes I made from my original plans for this tropical fish. I decided to do a small wall hanging rather than a framed picture because I wanted all the textures in the piece to be visible and even touchable. For the background I chose a suede-like fabric in a medium teal color. After appliqueing the fish and its watery background to this material, I decided not to use the narrow black felt “frame” I had cut for it, substituting instead a glittering edging in blue and silver. I liked this much better than the felt and plan to use a similar fabric for the current project. A narrow pocket at the top of the teal fabric contains a small dowel, from which the hanging is suspended.

For the current project, here is a downloadable silhouette of a fantail goldfish. You may use the narrow frame or discard it and substitute your choice of trimming.

Downloadable Goldfish Outline (click here)

You will need the following materials:

Materials you will need

•   a rectangle of black felt approximately 81/2 inches X 11 inches (22 cm X 31 cm)

• a piece of silk or nylon crepe approximately 10 inches X 13 inches (26 cm X 33 cm) in a “watery” pattern
• scraps of silk or nylon, from old scarves, in shades of yellow, gold, and orange
• a glittery button for the eye
• various trims
• matching threads
• heavier material for the backing fabric
• a small dowel if you are making a wall hanging, and cord or wire to suspend it

You will need the following equipment:

Equipment you will need

• scissors or shears that are used only for fabric, yarn, or floss
• small, sharp-pointed embroidery scissors
• manicure scissors (optional)
• a ruler or other measuring stick
• straight pins
• permanent markers in yellow, gold, and/or orange (optional)

You will also need access to an ironing board and a steam iron.

NOTE: In the original article, I showed the equipment I used to cut the silhouette. However, if you are not accustomed to using craft knives I recommend that you use scissors instead. Manicure scissors with their curved blades are useful for getting around small curves cleanly. And to teenagers or ‘tweens who may want to make one of these as an art project or for a Girl Scout badge, please do not use craft knives or razor blades unless an adult is present. Accidents can happen very quickly and can be serious.

The step-by-step procedure is similar to that for the tropical fish.

    1. Assemble your materials and equipment. Press your fabrics, being careful to use the right temperature setting for each one. Since I use so many kinds of delicate fabrics, I use a press cloth between the fabrics and the iron.
    2. Download the goldfish pattern and make a second copy, which will be cut apart. Pin one copy to the felt rectangle.       
    3. Cut around the outside of the fish. Make your cuts as clean and neat as possible. Then make a slit in the middle of each interior section of the fish and carefully remove both the paper and the felt.

Felt cut-out of goldfish outline

4. Lay out the fabric for the big fantail. (The curved top half of this section of the fish is indicated by the dotted line on the pattern.) I cut two pieces — one for the entire tail and one for just the curved top half. I pinned the two together with the smaller piece underneath, then pinned both underneath the black felt frame, trimming off any fabric that showed around the frame. I basted the fabric to the frame with a bright-colored thread so that the basting will be easy to remove later.

Step 4

5. Repeat step 4 for the body, head, and three smaller fins.

Step 5

6. Place the whole assembly on the “watery” background. Because goldfish are pond dwellers, I chose a fabric that suggested some plant material in the water and some sunlight reflections on the surface. Pin the assembly in place on the fabric, pinning both the outside and inside edges of the black felt.  Using black thread,  sew around the inside of each section. If you are sewing by hand, as I do, make your stitches as small and close together as you can. Remove the pins from the insides of the sections and make sure all pieces lie perfectly flat. Re-pin the outside edges as needed. Now sew around the outside edges of the felt. Remove all pins and basting threads and press the assembly lightly, using a press cloth over it.

At this point I chose to do some light shading with the markers I mentioned earlier and a small amount of embroidery. If you decide to use markers, practice on scrap materials first.  Use light, quick stokes and don't let the marker tip press into the fabric and make spots.

Step 7

7. Since some of these fabrics are slippery, you may want to make a cardboard cutout to draw around. Cut the cardboard to the size you need. Turn the fabric over and place the cardboard cutout on the back of the fabric. Mark around the edges of the cardboard with a pencil. Remove the cardboard. Clip off a small triangle from each of the four corners of the material to be turned under. Turn under the raw edges of the “watery” fabric and baste them. Press again if necessary.

8. Cut your background fabric, hem it if necessary, and sew the pocket for the dowel if you are making a wall hanging. The background fabric should be enough larger than the applique to serve as a picture mat. If you are going to frame the piece, trim the outside to fit the frame you plan to use. Mark the place where the applique should go. If you plan to make a pillow, you will need double the amount of background fabric, plus a pillow form or stuffing.

9. Place the applique on the background fabric and pin it in place. Sew it to the background fabric. Sew the black felt “frame” or some decorative trimming over the seam where the applique is sewn to the background fabric. Place the button for the fish’s eye on the head and sew it through all layers of fabric so that it will not sag or droop when the piece is hung on the wall. I prefer shank buttons for eyes because they stand out from the fabric and cover the stitches used to sew them on.

Reverse applique Fantail Goldfish, finished through Step 9

Downloadable blackwork goldfish pattern (click here)

I never discard a pattern I like.  Here is the goldfish done as a pattern to be used in an entirely different kind of needlework! The pattern is yours to download and embroider in Spanish blackwork. If you are not familiar with Spanish blackwork, you may want to refer to these two previous blog posts (October 6, 2013 and October 18, 2013). The downloadable pattern for the tropical fish was given in the post for May 28, 2018. The two blackwork patterns may be used as a facing pair if you like. You will notice that the present chart has a number of new diaper patterns.

Keep watching for a second tropical fish, made as a companion piece to the first one, this summer. It will also have both a downloadable outline pattern for reverse applique and another downloadable pattern for a Spanish blackwork piece, with several more new diaper patterns.

Enjoy!

 This post by Annake's Garden is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License.

Spring Questions and Answers 2018

Butterflies, photo by J.J.

I have been looking for the pattern for the yellow (middle) butterfly from your wall hanging (March 21, 2016) I can find the orange one on the top and the purple one on the bottom. Did I miss a post somehow?

I’m afraid the “miss” was mine. I am so sorry. I was sure that I had posted it, but a thorough search of past posts did not find it. Here it is, with my apologies.

Click HERE to download

You said we should watch the Questions and Answers for more blackwork. Do you have more?

Blackwork fish quilt block

Yes. Here is the fish block. You will notice that it differs from the original stitch pattern. I usually stitch a pattern first and make changes before I do the printed pattern. This time I was working from a pattern I made years ago and had never done as embroidery. As I worked, I found I didn’t particularly agree with some of the stitch patterns that I originally drew. I liked the partial stitches for the back of the fish, considering they looked more “scaly”. On the other hand, I thought the pattern for the lower part of the fish’s body needed more stitching, not less. I curved the lines for the tiny bones in the top and bottom fins, working them in alternating lines of small chain stitch and backstitch. If you like the straight lines of the original pattern better, I suggest that you use a straight edge to put in light pencil lines on the fabric before working the lines in the stitch of your choice. Never follow a pattern if you think of one that you like better. My patterns are suggestions — not commands!

As it appeared when it was first finished, I thought the fish looked rather lonely. One of my “doodles” was of a small fish that might have belonged to the same family, so I gave her some for company. I like the finished block much better now.

Graph of small fish from quilt block

Here is a little graph pattern for the “baby” fish.  I outlined them first. The interior lines are done in back stitch. The eye is a French knot. Fish change greatly during their lives, so they seldom look the same at all stages of their lives.  Many young fish are very nearly transparent, so you don’t need to put in many details. I didn’t make a transfer for the baby fish — just stitched them free-hand.

While I’m on the subject of fish patterns, here is the Siamese Fighting Fish (betta) that was done in reverse applique as it would appear as blackwork patterns. I told you I never discard a pattern I like!

Tropical fish done as blackwork pattern

Look for more about Blackwork and see more new patterns in our upcoming "Summer 2018  Questions and Answers" post.

You mention several stitches to use as outlines, but you seem to use chain stitch most of the time.  Why is that?

Examples of decorated chain stitch

It is because the chain stitch has so many decorative possibilities itself. Once you establish it, you can embellish it in many ways. For example, you can:

• backstitch the center of the chain;

• do a double-running stitch down the center with two colors;

• whip-stitch the chain;   

• whip-stitch the sides of the chain separately;

• work a Pekingese stitch through the chain;

• interlace the chain;        

• interlace the chain and then couch the laced loops down with a third color.

And that’s only the beginning!

Owls seem to be on people’s minds this month! That is shown by the following group of questions.

I’m working on the owl blackwork pattern and I’m really enjoying it, but I’m not sure what I am supposed to do with the parts that are solid black on the pattern?

I’m so glad you are enjoying the work. The solid black parts of the pattern, like the feet and the eyes, are supposed to be worked in solid stitching. I use Beauvais embroidery for mine. This is done in continuous chain stitch. I first outline the area with chain stitch. Instead of stopping when I join the ends of the outline, I move my needle just inside the outline and follow it around and around until no background shows through. You can do the same parts in satin stitch or long-and-short stitch, and outline them when they are completed. If making the circles for the eyes does not suit you, make them diamond shapes, with the corners touching the mid-points of the outer square. Or you can simply fill in the whole square with long, straight stitches. Your results will not be exactly like the pattern, but there is absolutely nothing wrong with that. Keep up the good work!

Did you ever finish the little needlepoint owl sitting on a branch?

I did. I gave him a full moon to hunt by. Here he is, completed but not yet framed. I have not yet done the little fellow in Holbein stitch or counted cross-stitch, but you can easily stitch him in either technique from the pattern on the post for January 1, 2017, and give him any background that you like.

"Night Owls", Holbein embroidery on gingham

A long time ago you did a mother owl and her baby in colors. Are you going to print the pattern for that one?

Oh, my!  That was a very long time ago! That was a fairly large picture done in Holbein embroidery and the figures were larger than the blackwork animals that I have been making. I’m sure they would not fit a one-page pattern. Let me think about it. Maybe I can find a way to make them smaller without losing the Holbein patterns. In the meantime, here is the picture she is talking about.

Have you ever made a really BIG owl?

Well, I made a latch-hook wall hanging of an owl once that was larger than any of the owls you have seen in other techniques.

"Autumn Owl", large latch-hooked wall hanging

But last fall I made a really BIG owl. It all began with a dream I had about an owl being attacked by two boys with paintball guns. He suffered greatly, but one evening he awoke to hunt and something wonderful had happened. His feathers had turned to autumn colors. That wouldn’t be a problem while he hunted in the dark. In the daytime he could hide in trees where the leaves were turning autumn colors until the boys gave up hunting for him and turned to other pursuits. Waking, I thought,”What a nice story. I must write it down for Angie to tell her class.” (Angie is one of my “honorary” grand-daughters and a first-year kindergarten teacher.) I needed an illustration. J.D. and I thought of a poster the children had given me long ago of a bright-colored geometric owl. When we found it, however, it wasn’t as either of us remembered it. So I sat down with my rug canvas and yarn to recreate the owl of my dream. Here he is, just waking to find himself wonderfully changed.

Enjoy the Springtime!

 This post by Annake's Garden is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License.