Some of the results of our earliest classes were described, but not illustrated. I want to correct that oversight now. I mentioned that the students began filling in the backgrounds behind their completed upright gobelin designs. I had them do a very simple background, using the same upright gobelin stitch in narrow horizontal bands. Most of them chose a solid color for this. I did, however demonstrate a background done with a variegated yarn.
Waterlily with straight stitched background |
The example I was using was a small waterlily, which we previously showed you front and back. Waterlilies always make me think of Monet’s paintings of them. I chose this particular variegated yarn for the background because it reminded me of relatively still water in a pond, reflecting light and the shadows of overhead vegetation. The students had to make some choices, omitting or shortening background stitches to intersect with the central figures without leaving any bare canvas between the two. They didn’t find this particularly difficult, and most were pleased with their results.
I showed them an alternative version of the waterlily, done with both horizontal and vertical stitches for additional texture, with a background in the same variegated yarn, but done in basket-weave tent stitch. They had not yet learned the tent stitches, but they expressed eagerness to do so after seeing this version in use.
There is one caution about using variegated yarns. If you are doing a background like the “water” one seen here, to get large areas of a single color — you will need (as I have done) to cut sections of the color you are using out of the variegated yarn. If you do so, be sure to leave at least an inch of the two adjacent colors at each end of the piece you have selected. After you cut the yarn, you can use these short sections to anchor the yarn at both ends by securing the colored tips under existing stitches. This leaves you with the maximum amount of your chosen color for stitching.
I also showed them the larger design of mushrooms with half of the background done in variegated yarn and half in a solid color. We showed you this last time as a work in progress. Whenever possible, I show students alternative methods of making similar projects — but only after having then do a sample in the simplest techniques. Here the “sky” is done with long upright stitches, but the areas are broken up so that the stitches don’t become too long and tend to sag or snag on other objects or surfaces. The lower half of the background, which represents straw or dead grasses, is done in a variegated yarn stitched both horizontally and vertically.
When each of the students had done enough background that I was assured they could finish it, we began back-stitching the central design. I gave each student a small ball of black yarn and showed them how to separate it into individual strands. They were shown a sample back-stitched in two strands of yarn and one back-stitched in a single strand. They chose which one they preferred. I explained that the single strands would fray much faster than the whole yarn, so that they needed to use shorter amounts for back-stitching than they had for the gobelin stitches.
We began with 12-inch strands. Some people quickly mastered the back-stitching, while others needed some assistance. They were told that, if a stitch did not show up, they should go over it with a second stitch immediately. If a series of short stitches did not outline their section well, they could use a long stitch over the top of the short stitches. Some were disappointed that they couldn’t achieve truly curved lines while working on this canvas, but one thing I wanted to emphasize was that each canvas or fabric used imposes some restrictions on the materials and stitches that can be successfully used on it.
For example, they were aware that the plastic canvas they were using is #7 canvas. (There are other, smaller gauges available.) They knew that this size accommodates 49 stitches per square inch and can easily take stitches in knitting yarn or a yarn of similar weight. They were told that they would eventually be using #14 needlepoint canvas, and that larger numbers mean smaller mesh. All right, they thought, 14 is 2 times 7, so there should be twice as many squares in a square of #14 canvas as there are in a square inch of #7 canvas. That sounds logical, but it is untrue. There are four times as many squares in a square inch of #14 canvas! (Do the math: 7 x 7 = 49, but 14 x 14 = 196.) So the finer canvas will only accommodate a much smaller yarn or fewer strands of yarn than the #7 canvas will.. It will, however, allow the users to make much finer curves and put smaller details into their pictures.
The students were asked to complete the project before the next meeting and to bring it back for a critique and to see some ideas for using or displaying the sample if they chose to do so. Some of those choices include: framing the sample in a 5 in. x 7 in. frame, backing it with felt for use as a large coaster or small mat, using tent stitch to make a larger mat from the plastic canvas so it can be placed in a larger frame, mounting the sample on a larger piece of wood or Masonite, or covering a larger piece of heavy cardboard with wallpaper or gift wrap and mounting the sample. Some of these will be demonstrated, while students are asked to suggest other possibilities. They were also asked to read the posts on this blog for November 3, 2013 (Gobelin Droit) and March 8, 2015 (“Stained-glass” Stitchery), in that order.
I hope you enjoyed this "peek" into one of my classes in progress.
Some project finishing ideas |
This post by Annake's Garden is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License.
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