Sunday, March 8, 2015

“Stained-Glass” Stitchery

stained glass windchime
Stained glass windchime
When I was a little girl, I loved to visit old houses that had stained glass windows or door panels. Today, we have small stained-glass pieces in several rooms of our house. I've adapted the look of stained-glass to stitchery. This kind of stitchery is a combination of French longstitch (check our Archives for the November 3, 2013 post), back-stitch, and sometimes tent stitch. It can be done on needlepoint canvas, even-weave fabrics, plastic canvas. And even on clothing. It can be done with tapestry yarn, knitting yarn, crewel wool, baby yarn and many novelty yarns. On a smaller scale, it can be done with cotton, rayon, linen, metallic or silk embroidery floss.

scrubbing excess ink off canvas
Scrubbing excess ink off the canvas
Let me guide you through one such project. I began by drawing a design in pencil on mono needlepoint canvas. I divided both the design and the background into smaller segments. These sections should be small enough that the stitches across them will not have to be more than 2½ inches (6.5 centimeters) long. Then I went over all the lines with a fine-point permanent marker and let it dry. I scrubbed the lines with tissues or paper towels so that no excess ink will rub off on the yarns.




Sweatshirt with iris pattern stitching in progress
Sweatshirt with iris pattern stitching in progress
If I'm doing the stitchery on a dark fabric, like this sweatshirt, I draw the design on thin tracing paper and stitch through the paper in back-stitches with white yarn or floss. Then I tear the tracing paper away.

stained glass stitchery iris
Stained-glass stitchery iris, longstitched
I started at the center of the design. Cutting a length of yarn no more than 18 inches (45.5 centimeters) long, I threaded the yarn into my needle and pulled all but about an inch (4 or 5 centimeters) through the canvas, from back to front, on one of the inked lines. (On the dark fabric, I work over the white stitches to cover them so they did not need to be pulled out afterward.) I held the remaining yarn against the back of the canvas and worked stitches over it until it was secured in place. When I completed a section, I secured the end of the yarn by running it under several completed stitches on the back of the work.


stained glass stitchery iris with background
Stained-glass stitchery iris with background stitching
In most cases, I worked vertical stitches from the top line of a section to the bottom line, but there are occasional cases where it makes more sense to work from side to side horizontally on a section (a stem, a tall, narrow leaf or a tree trunk, for example). No threads of canvas are left bare; each stitch in a section shares a square of mesh at each end with a stitch from an adjoining section. When the center motif was complete, I worked the sections of the background in the same manner.


stained glass stitchery iris with backstitching
Stained-glass stitchery iris with backstitching
The next step is to back-stitch with black or very dark gray yarn over all of the lines where sections of stitches meet, whether on the central motif or the background. This represents the lead pieces that hold the sections of glass together. These metal strips are thick, so you should use yarn that has not been divided for the best effect. Use short stitches that cover three to five strands of yarn, at most. Each stitch ends in the same square of mesh as the stitch that preceded it. I recommend that you make a knot at the end of your yarn before you begin stitching so that the stitching does not pull out later.

It is possible to do this same technique in floss. In this case, the stitches will be shorter and closer together than those done in yarn. I usually choose a background for floss that allows me to use all six strands of the floss together. This gives a very satin-like surface to the work. For very fine canvas or an even-weave fabric like Aida, however, you may need to split the strands of floss and use fewer than six. If you are doing a complex design in floss, you may want to use a metallic thread for outlining instead of black.

variegated yarns and flosses
Variegated yarns and flosses
For a truly stained-glass effect, you will want some of the larger sections of the design done in variegated yarns (or flosses) or blended ones. You can easily find variegated flosses. You may be able to find variegated yarns. Unfortunately, yarns go through fads and fashions, so your selections may be limited. Yarns that are different shades of one color are usually preferable to ones that mix different colors. If you are using white yarn to represent clear glass, blend two strands of it with one of pale blue, pale gray, pale beige or lavender.

On small projects, I work the stained-glass stitches to the edge of the piece. For larger designs, however, I may do a tent stitch background. The fantasy butterfly below shows just such a background. The butterfly itself is done in longstitch. The veins are done in back-stitch with two strands of black, while the outline is done in a full four strands. The background, done in the basketweave style of tent stitch, is done in colors that are the complements of the colors used in the wings of the butterfly. The tent stitches are much flatter than the longstitches, thereby giving the butterfly a three-dimensional effect. This is an especially pretty effect on pillow tops and articles of clothing.

In a future project, we will discuss the ways to make blended yarns and flosses.

Enjoy this colorful technique,




stained-glass stitchery butterfly with tent stitched background
Stained-glass stitchery butterfly with tent stitched background


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